(4) Remove wedge and tighten driver bolt
Adjust guide screws to permit free entry of clutch band.
(10) Insert band.
(5) Put on the clutch shifter sleeve.
Note. If old band is to be used, reverse it end-for-
(6) Make up bell crank subassembly:
end to distribute wear. Bands for five main clutches are
(a) Insert live end links and toggle lever in
interchangeable and reversible end-for-end.
bell crank. Drive in bushing. Turn bushing half way
(a) Position band about 2 inches ahead of
around when replaced to give double life.
dead end where it slides in easily and then rotate back
(b) Replace spring by inserting bolts; screw
into pin position.
down to spring height of 2 5/16-inches and cotter pin to
(b) Insert dead end pin and lock with lock
plate and capcrew.
(c) Insert adjusting bolt and nuts. Thick nut
(c) Insert adjustment bolt eye between live
goes on outer end, thin nut inside on eye end.
end links and line up with pin holes in band, slide in pin,
(7) Insert bell crank in arm of clutch driver
insert U-lock pin and lock with cotter pin.
insert fulcrum pin and lock with lock plate and cap screw.
(d) Adjust guide screws and lock with
(8) Reassemble toggle:
(a) Slide toggle yoke over ball stud.
(e) Adjust clutch band (TM 5-3810-289-12).
(b) Attach yoke and links by assembling
(11) Install shifter collar with clamp bolts
bushings with pins inserted so heads are inside and lock
and install clutch shifter yoke.
with cotter pin.
(12) Check adjustment of clutch carefully
(9) Attach band guide with two capscrew.
after several hours operation.
Section II. LOWER WORKS
is attached by four wired capecrews, from lower end of
4-15. Vertical Propel Shaft
shaft and block bevel pinion in place for reassembly
(unless removal is necessary).
(9) Pull out shaft (90 pounds) upward.
machined from alloy steel with splines at both ends of a
(10) If removal is not necessary, leave
4 7/8" diameter shaft. There is a hole through the center
digging lock and steering control rods in place. If
of the shaft for steering clutches and digging lock
removal of bevel gear is desired, digging lock and
steering control rods may be disconnected at the lower
(2) The shaft turns on bushing type bearings
end and lifted to clear.
in centering gudgeon of truck frame and revolving frame.
(11) Remove oil seal flange, oil seal, and oil
It transmits propelling power only, and takes no shear or
seal gasket by taking out four capscrews.
Note. Always remove flange and gasket to prevent
(3) The propel bevel pinion is splined to
damage to oil seal when replacing shaft.
bottom of shaft and held in place with a retaining plate
(12) Remove bevel gear from center gear
and capscrews. To remove the vertical propel shaft the
upper works must be removed.
Inspection and Repair.
Clean all parts
thoroughly and inspect for damage and excessive wear.
(1) If shaft is to be pulled entirely, remove
For gear and bearing inspection and repair procedure,
drum lagging from front drum to provide clearance.
see paragraph 2-8. Rebuild chipped or broken shaft
(2) Disconnect boom hoist control vertical
splines by welding and grinding. Replace damaged or
reach rod and, on shovel, crowd chain to get room for
Be sure all grease fittings and
lubrication ducts are clean and open so lubricant can
(3) Clean and remove horizontal swing-and-
reach bushings. Replace damaged oil seal or gasket.
propel gear case cover.
(4) Remove connections to controls in
(1) If bevel gear has been removed, insert it
hollow vertical propel shaft (6) as when removing upper
in lower case above center shaft.
(2) Block bevel pinion in place against top of
(5) Remove swing-and-propel jaw clutch
propelling gear case with washer above it, ready to
and steer yoke and lift jaw clutch (2) off splines.
(6) Lift out spur gear.
(3) Lower shaft into place over steering and
(7) Drain and remove lower gear case and
digging lock control rods. If rods have beer, removed,
steering clutch guards as complete unit.
assemble them after vertical propel shaft is in place.
(8) Remove bevel pinion split retainer which